Coats to kill for, structured A-line shapes and the omnipresent sprinkle of masculinity: Kym Ellery’s Spring 2012 ticked all the boxes of a great Ellery collection, but in lookbook form, it’s even more excellent on the eyes.
If you think you can discern a 70s edge lining ‘The Silent Years’, you’d be right. Spring 2012 takes its somewhat dark inspiration from the religious cults of that decade, though the final result is far from depressing. More specifically, the collection references the ritualistic behaviour of misled cult members. Interesting seeing as Ellery is one of those designers who could name a collection Post-Punk Homoerotic Soft Porn and still have her disciples lapping up every metallic-embellished inch of it (oh wait, that actually happened).
The collection in question further cements Ellery’s place in the top ranks of homegrown fashion. Shiny metallics crop up amidst an otherwise muted palette of burnt red and sky blue, investing the femininity into Kym Ellery’s signature boy/girl blend, while those beautiful structured shapes she sculpts anew each season take the form of bellbottom pants, peplums, A-line everything and insanely cool coats. Spring 2012 also showcases Ellery’s take on the everywhere-right-now bomber jacket, this time rendered in muted gold and a luxe rust suede.
In photo form, much of the outfits rely on the impossibly perfect abdomen of Ellery’s lookbook model, but even for normal humans with 9-to-5 office jobs, there’s plenty to go on. Cigarette trousers, shift dresses and sturdy nipped waists are even better suited to the workplace than they are to the home turf of some bizarre cult, but in the process of polishing up, Ellery hasn’t alienated the cool-girl night owls who await each collection with the staunchness of a religious disciple.