Danish design is not typically associated with throwbacks to particular bygone eras, but Camilla Staerk’s latest collection conjures up 1920’s imagery, and hints of the late 80’s add flavor.
Growing up in Copenhagen and landing in New York City via a stint in London has done wonders for Staerk; plunging mid-naval necklines on above-the-knee dresses hint at both an affection for flapper-era excess and an appreciation for the fashion muses of today – Charlotte Gainsbourg, Lou Doillon, et all – who hit the red carpets and streets without long trains or too much fuss.
Leather one-piece bathing suits evoke Norma Kamali’s first couture catwalks, but with the presence of seams cut sky-high on the thigh, Staerk hits her mark as a modern designer.
An embossed alligator jacket, the fit boxy and wide, with sleeves finished above the wrists, stands out as an ode to pre-millennial glamour: excess without embellishment.
The standout piece in Staerk’s collection borrows the embossed alligator print, but paired with a lilac hue, a
head-to-toe gown becomes the signature look for modern dress. “I developed the print based on the embossed alligator skin,” Staerk says about the dress, “and I just had to do it. I loved the color.”
Somehow, we know by looking at her presentation, that this dress is the conclusion of her collection, hinting at what’s yet to come.
The scalloped shoes in black-and-white take us back to the 20’s again, suggesting once more the duality of unapologetic fun, coupled with fine finishing and elegance.