Highlights from days 4 and 5 of New York Fashion Week:
Diane Von Furstenberg
This season’s Diane von Furstenberg collection, co-designed by Yvan Mispelaere, was titled “American Legends” and from the array of prints the design duo showed, it was clear that they were inspired by a number of them. Millicent Rogers, Diana Vreeland, and Gloria Vanderbilt (the latter of which also inspired this season’s Timo Weiland collection) were all singled out in the designer’s show notes. While the collection featured a few of the expected wrap dresses and classic separates, it had an unexpected amount of edgy, and at times even kooky, prints that were leaps and bounds from the closet staples many might have expected.
It can be hard in today's culture to put sexy and classy in the same sentence, but those are the words that sprung to mind as I viewed the Monique Lhuillier Fall 2011 runway show. Today, several designers heralded a season of ladylike dressing. Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, and Lhuillier all showed a defined natural waist and, in the case of Lhuillier, super-slim-on-the-hips silhouettes that had a waft of 40s style to them.
It has become common knowledge that whatever Marc Jacobs shows this season, we’ll be seeing splattered across the runways next season, and that might be for the best as it will probably take a few moths to wrap our heads around this collection. In a showing that looks as if Artist Yayoi Kusama got stuck in a sex shop, polka dots ran rampant with a significant hit of rubber, lace, and latex. The designer worked with renowned London fetish apparel company House of Harlot to create sequin look-a-like paillettes that, like most other things in the collection, are made of rubber.
The collection was classic Bouwer: short hemlines, Herve Leger-esque body-hugging dresses covered in sequins and beads in dark hues, long billowing grecian goddess gowns in dramatic reds and soft whites, and the occassional power shoulder and large rose detailing. It seemed that the party dress was more alive than ever, and Marc recreated it in 3D. Plunging necklines were de rigueur, and figure-hugging silk and jersey seemed to be the fabric of choice.