Highlights from days 6 and 7 of New York Fashion Week:
Marc by Marc Jacobs
It’s been clear that Marc Jacobs has come down from his colorful high of spring, and is in a darker mood for fall. While his Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2011 Collection was still colorful, it was a more earth-toned palette than the brights he showed last season. Tweedy New England foliage colors were on display. It’s a bit ironic, since those spring brights have been prevalent in many of the Fall 2011 collectiona. But Marc has always been a trend leader. This line showed facets of his 70s girl, perhaps a bit younger, a bit cooler but also more sophisticated. By contrast, it was a much more conservative collection than his “asylum chic” main line.
It’s hard to believe we are celebrating Michael Kors’ 30th year in fashion. Younger generations of downtown-dressers sometimes struggle to identify with Kors’ tailored sportswear, but what we must remember is that in 1981, when he launched his womenswear collection, he was the wunderkind of his time. Not to say he hasn’t had to work for it; the Kors empire nearly wasn’t when he was forced to file for bankruptcy protection in the early 90s, but with the help of LVMH, the Kors brand has become a recognizable staple of American fashion.
With all the fur we’ve been seeing on the runway this season, there was little doubt that the Gilles Mendel-designed J. Mendel collection would be an all-out fur-fest and thankfully we got that, and more.
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta has carved out a market for himself that was once thought impossible. He nurtures a groomed and well-heeled uptown clientele while maintaining mainstream (read: celebrity fueled) buzz with stunning and revered eveningwear. The brand has had a youthful rejuvenation in the past few seasons with Erika Bearman, otherwise known as OscarPRGirl, becoming an internet celebrity as one of the industry’s most captivating insiders. Through her well read Twitter and Tumblr pages, Bearman offers a look inside the closed doors of the designer’s collections and through which has endeared an entirely new audience for the brand.