Historically speaking, the resort season is all about jet-set-ready Bali and St. Tropez looks, but this has increasingly changed over the last few seasons with many designers showing more staple essentials in their collections – in other words, the season is becoming more commercial. Among the designers that have presented their collections these past few days that is certainly the case, but that’s not to say there wasn’t plenty to love and a few notable surprises…
Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony: Sure Sevigny has a few seasons designing for Opening Ceremony under her belt, but who could have predicted that her first foray into a full-on runway show for the brand would turn out to be one of the most buzzed about shows of the season? The sporty, “downtown” collection stayed true to what has made the line a good seller, so expect oversized cut-out shoulders, laser cut leather (similar to what the actress/designer wore to this year’s CFDA Awards), along with two new collaborations – logo-printed pieces with Vision and sunglasses with Barton Perreira.
Alexander Wang: He may be young, but Wang lacks nothing in the way of business savvy. Case in point, just a short time after opening his Manhattan flagship and timed to his Resort show, Wang announced that his second flagship store will be opening in Beijing at Sanlitun Village (North) in early 2012. For his collection this season, the designer stuck to the sportswear he does best looking to cycling, swimming, and running apparel for inspiration. Expect details like shirts with elongated carpenter pockets, a cotton worker vest paired with a scuba waistband, baseball jerseys, and perforated track pants.
Stella McCartney: At this point, the British designer has become well known for her laid-back, fun, Resort presentations. In fact, when it comes to Stella McCartney Resort, even the models are all smiles. In a reflection of the mood the designer set up at the Gardens of St. Luke’s in NYC's West Village (which included models playing croquet and guests sipping on cocktails and pretzels), McCartney presented a beautiful mix of signature loose separates along with vibrant floral and striped prints.
Proenza Schouler: Forget jetting off to a sunny island, the mood at the Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez-designed 2012 Resort show was decidedly Fall. Patchwork, sweaters, leather, and a rusty color palette made for a slew of 70s-inspired separates and dresses, many of which were done in graphic, color-blocked prints, that were given a warm-edge with the use of linen fabrics and short sleeves on some of the looks.
Emilio Pucci: Thanks to Peter Dundas, Emilio Pucci may be as well known now for micro minis and beautifully embellished garments as it is for its signature colorful prints. For Resort, however, Dundas offered something more easily approachable with a laid back collection of dresses and separates with pops of animal prints and neon brights.