News & Runway

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2012 Runway Review

What’s comforting about some designers showing in Paris is that you know what you’re going to get; that’s definitely the case with Ann Demeulemeester. You can be guaranteed to see a lot of black and white with strap details, floor length skirts, and angsty looking models. This season, while hitting all of her required bases, Demeulemeester also worked with fringe, sheer, and ombre fabrics, and a lighter sensibility into the works. That’s not to say we saw tank tops and mini skirts, in fact just a few of the looked even bared arms, but the use of light fabrics and textiles gave the collection a feel of gothic spring. It was masculine and understated but sexy, with nods to the nineteenth century and Africa, an inspiration explored in her last men’s collection.

Notions of deconstruction were throughout but there was an element of constructed destruction. Slouchy knits and over-worked outerwear were shown alongside chiffon capes and tulle trousers. Waistcoats and blazers were shredded and styled to look worn and layered by someone escaping structured life. It was one of those moments where in spite of Demeulemeester staying the course to her signature aesthetic, the collection was a surprise, and a good one at that.