Obvious Japanese themes without going Geisha and ubiquitous fishnet without going trashy. Reem Acra has really pulled off a coup in the way she incorporated her two major inspirations for Fall 2013 without veering from a sophisticated and singular creative vision.
Those inspirations were a recent trip to Japan, which was hinted at in silhouette and referenced more outright in floral appliques and embroidery, and the photography of Daido Moriyama from whom she borrowed fishnet stockings as a major graphic theme. Seriously, there were fishnets on everything. To a woman who created a dress with sheer fishnet peekaboo panels and paired it with visible thigh highs and still made it look classy, we should all take a bow. This is how you do that Hitchcock heroine gone sex bomb thing so many people try to pull off. There is no hint of the burlesque or the pinup. Sexuality is much more subtle, though present.
On trend, Acra also did a remarkable job creating texture and interest in all black looks. Leather, fur, crystal detailing and the fishnet certainly helped with that. Whether it was spider webby, almost goth sparkly mesh or something more expected, it was never capricious. Interestingly, for every form fitting dress or slim bias shift, there was a pair of baggy pants or a drapey wool check poncho. Designers are really playing with volume on the lower half this season, and it takes the eye a moment to adjust.
The eveningwear was, as expected, stunning. Beautiful sequin applique on second-skin fishnet made up one fluid gown, and on others comprised a bodice that met a frothy, tulle ball gown skirt with an asymmetric oversize ruffle or a satin cascade of peplum-cum-ruffles. This collection was a luxurious treat that will whip you up into a fashion frenzy.