Yohji Yamamoto is not the most accessible, nor the most glamorous, of designers. Instead, his creations tend to be reclusive and low-key. His work strikes a balance between unusual shapes, which nonetheless look organic and emphasize the linear, proportions careful and understated. His show in Paris was an example of just that kind of thinking, which focused on one of the one most necessary elements in any wardrobe: the winter coat.
As is usual for Yamamoto, the palette was limited to black with a bit of grey and some carefully placed red – in the shoes, for example, which were glossy and without a heel, the kind of thing you might put on to cheer yourself up on a rainy day.
He explored the coat in all its varieties, including a long version in black and grey which reached almost to the floor, with wide floppy lapels resting on the shoulders. Yamamoto has no need to play at being avant-garde, but he nevertheless included two coats, in black and red, which tumbled down over the models’ bodies like wads of crumpled-up paper. Except for those two pieces, the line of the show was long and narrow, hanging straight down from the shoulders to the ground.
Evening wear went untouched with the exception of two long black dress, one with a bib of pleated fabric hanging down from the colar. But then, the Yamamoto woman probably has more interesting things to do than go to parties. She might strike you as monastic, but really she’s just looking for clothes which will let her be herself.
Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.