Oversized black mesh hats overwhelmed the models at Anne Demeulemeester’s Spring 2014 collection in the same way that the moody, darkly romantic feeling they evoked overwhelmed the collection. The hats, similar in shape to big floppy sun hats but with an aesthetic kinship to romanticized nun’s habits, dipped down over some model’s faces like veils. The clothing was similarly relaxed yet dramatic.
Art nouveau patterns and floral motifs decorated luxe fabrics like silk, devore and flocked velvet. The motifs rendered in flocked velvet were particularly alluring for evening and red carpets. Color came in peach and a muted rust which gave way to bright red. Shapes had a 70s sensibility with modern tailoring.
But the all-black ensembles were equally alluring. The mix in weight and texture was masterfully done. A long flowy sleeveless tunic in black and white stripes and the velvet flocking, beautifully draped, Mick Jagger-esque slouchy rocker button downs and pants, and sheer tops and pants accented with the florals and stripes were all standouts. One gown with all these motifs rolled into one was draped up to the hip to reveal the gorgeous hosiery featured throughout.
The collection was equal parts rock and sophistication, which can be hard to pull off. You can easily see some of these pieces on anyone from Florence Welch to some gypset (gypsy-jetset darling) heiress entertaining on her yacht. There was no shortage of personality, which is to be much lauded in the all-white landscape of Spring 2014.