As New York Fashion Week closes, editors pop on their cashmere socks for the long-haul flight to London with the expectation of imaginative and eccentric collections that are a grand departure from the marketable sensibilities of New York. This season has broken the mould so far, though, with J.J. S. Lee opening the tents at Somerset House for Fall 2014 with a mature collection laden with a considered design ethos and an ultimately wearable aesthetic.
Previously statement-making oversized designs have been replaced with bold, masculine tailoring and refined land-girl knits with well-executed dogtooth prints on flyaway silks and heritage tartan checks on brilliantly boiled wools.
Following on from the pallette established in New York, Lee’s models paraded down the catwalk with a beautiful melange of knits and silks in royal blues, bright whites, chocolate browns and soft greys.
The designer’s signature has always been minimalist and clean with a penchant for white, however there has been a real shift in the past two collections that have cemented her position in London Fashion Week as a real game-changer among the new-guard designers of London, including the likes of J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha.
This is only Jackie Lee’s sixth collection but there is an infinite amount of promise in her designs, let’s hope for London’s sake that she keeps showing in the same city.