With equestrian themes featured prominently on the Paris runways, one had to wonder how Jean Paul Gaultier would re-invent the trend for Hermes, the ultimate leader in equestrian chic. The answer? A leather and animal skin take on The Avengers, complete with sharp tailoring, John Steed’s signature umbrella, hat, and 3-piece suits.
While the head-to-toe leather look that opened the show and the crocadile pants may not be wearable for most (at least not as styled on the runway), the pieces where the skins were used in moderation – a belted at the waist fitted jacket with croc epaulets, for example – were gorgeous.
Similarly, while a number of menswear-inspired looks (many of which came complete with ties a la Steed, and the models’ hair tucked into a hat) would likely not be worn by most the way they were shown, they did offer some beautiful pieces when taken apart, including fitted monochromatic coats and body-conscious blazers.
Given the abundant use of leather, it should come as no surprise that there was distinct S&M feel to the collection – the looks are still Gaultier designs, after all. One look had a model clutching onto her umbrella almost as though it was a whip, while she wore a belted-at-the-waist button-down shirt fashioned into a dress, underneath a near-floor length leather coat, paired with a bow-tie and top hat.
Overall, whereas Gaultier’s own Fall/Winter 2010 felt a bit jumbled at times, this collection was an example in cohesiveness, an impressive take on a classic silhouette (not to mention to-die-for croc flat boots, and a slew of exotic Birkins and Kellys).
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