Article excerpted from inaya404.livejournal.com
One of my favorite collections, this Spring 2003 offering of Yohji Yamamoto’s was definitely one to remember. As he often does, this collection is a bit of a culmination of past techniques (and retrospectively speaking – future ones too) but it is still pretty stand-out, in my opinion. It is really refined and incredibly directional. I always seem to fall for his very narrowly conceptual collections over the varied ones, although they’re all delicious.
First of all, I love collars… and this collection has all sorts, either perfectly understated or brilliantly – and in the most effortless of manners – exaggerated. The overall silhouette is a comfortable one but, much like Spring 2009, has a ton of femininity sprinkled throughout the androgynous feel. Another thing I enjoy about this collection is the use of transparency which is very subtle yet makes it’s presence known in really lovely places; Yohji is always quite good at the voluminous transparency but I think the way it’s used in an understated manner here is really nice.
I also am a huge fan of the styling here, and think some of Tao’s collections are rather reminiscent of it. It’s very clean and straight-forward in it’s presentation, as his shows usually are. I really like the understated but ‘pretty’ aspects of it. The pink lipstick and loose finger wave styling of the hair paired with vintage-inspired headpieces really bring it all full circle.