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GIVENCHY: RAY OF LIGHT IN A DARK WORLD

Alabaster . . . lighthearted lemon, lavender, and mint? Did I mention white? 

Ahhh, finally that Givenchy black one swears by.  This season it seems like the economic gloom permeating the globe, and its nemesis, hope for a brighter future, have been stewing in the creative mind of Riccardo Tisci. 

Recognizing that the world, and his clients, under the current circumstances, need something a little more cheerful, Tisci, for his Spring 2009 Couture show, let light cast a shadow on his otherwise dark, somber world. 

Influenced by the ballet costumes of Pina Bausch, as well as the images of 18th and 19th century erotica, and let’s not forget his new, bright, err… color palette (everything is relative); Tisci build the foundation for his Spring 09 outing down the catwalk in Paris. “It was a little bit of a step up for me, to challenge myself to use color and show more daywear, which is doing very well with clients," states Tisci. 


As always, the tailoring was impeccable, he started the show with skirt suits that accentuate the feminine figure while exaggerating the shoulder. 

The shoulders and waist became a focal point throughout the show with Edwardian/80’s hybrid shoulders pronounced with sheer puffs of organza, gathered and pin tucked meticulously around the armhole sleeve; the waist securely nipped in with seaming, belts, and, of course, binding pieces of fabric.  

Then Tisci would visit the other end of the spectrum, abandoning the power shoulder for the delicate drape of fabric on the bias, letting it gently caress the erogenous shoulder zone.

In the end, it was refreshing for all Tisci fans that he didn’t completely abandon his deep-rooted feelings of melancholy, for underneath the surface of his foray into a brighter world; lay the dark realm he cherishes so dearly. 

Under the layers of flowing chiffon were visible lycra, and crystal-studded bondage straps, which eventually made their way to the outside of the garment, as in the black chiffon number that Lara Stone donned.  

The sunshine-lemon colors ultimately faded away into black by the finale.  Tisci has matured enough as a designer to know that he needs to stick to his signature feel, and in fashion, it all  “goes back to black”.

Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.