If you haven’t heard about Sania Vucetaj or her eponymous Brow Bar and amazing line of products, then you’re in for a treat. Sania is the ultimate brow guru with years and years of experience shaping thousands of brows, including those of her celebrity clientele. She is adored by all who set foot in her shabby-chic New York City location (including us), where she will whip your brows into shape and give you advice on how to fill them in properly and what to avoid at all costs.
When it comes to her products, the dual-ended brow pencil is a game-changer for us — it is foolproof to apply, perfectly formulated to go on like a dream and lasts all day. Sania recalls working at Bergdorf Goodman and not being able to recommend a brow product that was easy to use for customers. Being the pro she is, it was simple for her to make any brow product work, but for customers, the ease of filling in brows at home was not there. “So, I created my own brow pencil where the angled tip is wide (for the thick part of your brows) and also thin (to fill in sparse areas and ends) with a spooley (to blend), so it’s so easy to use,” she says.
But on to the master class she gave us — and boy, did we get schooled — that you have to read before the next time you shape your arches.
- Keep brows and brow area moisture-free. Sania advises avoiding any creams, lotions, moisturizers, etc. anywhere on or near the brows. “It makes the hair follicle flat and won’t allow the hair to grow back in. Imagine putting lotions in your scalp, we would never do that. My clients can’t believe the growth. [Brows] get healthier and fuller when you are mindful of this. Once you let the hairs breathe, you will start seeing the growth come back. The accumulation of product will only interfere with hair’s growth and your brow hair is extremely delicate.”
- Say NO to waxing or threading. Waxing is quick, but stretches out the skin and is extremely irritating — threading is no better. “They are too imprecise because you are pulling so many hairs at once. With threading, it breaks the hairs. It literally snaps them and you could easily end up with ingrown hairs.”
- Be mindful of where hair starts, ends and arches. The rule of thumb is to line up a pencil or brush so that it touches the outer edge of your nose and the inside of your eye to determine where brows will begin. The arch should be at its peak when the straight edge is angled at the outer edge of your nose and right outside of your pupil. Finally, the tail should end wherever the straight edge lines up with the outer edge of your nose and the outermost edge of your eye.
- The space between brows and lids determines a lot. The thickness of your brow is something you shouldn’t mess with if you are going for a natural look — meaning: Let it grow out completely. The lift is where you can decide to go for a high arch or a straighter one. But these two factors should be taken into consideration when framing the eye. “If you have a lot of space [between your brow and eyelids] you can carry a fuller brow. If someone has a small amount of space, you need to open up the eyes and it means more lift and not as much fullness for them.” This doesn’t equal thin brows, just a few extra hairs off the arch to show off your eyes to flatter them.
- Patience is key when growing them out. This means no plucking what you think are strays or attempting to shape your brows after a few days. “It can take a few months or up to a year for regrowth, and you need good brows, so you have no choice but to be patient. It’s not instant gratification when it comes to brows.”
- Magnifying mirrors are a definite no. “You see too much and wind up removing too much. A lot of people obsess and will pluck hairs daily and no one even sees them.” It’s recommended to clean up your brows every few weeks, and lay off the tweezers in the meantime.
- Hygiene is everything. Make sure to know where you are going and ensure that your esthetician holds a valid license in your state. If you are for waxing, then it’s crucial that your location does not double dip because bacteria and infections can spread this way. There have also been reports of women who get warts on their brows because of threading since the thread used for this method goes in the esthetician’s mouth.
- Tweezing wins. Not only will you fend off ingrown hairs (which look like dark dots on the brow area), but hair will grow back neatly and in sync when you tweeze.
To book an appointment with Sania at Sania’s Brow Bar at 48 West 20th St. New York, NY 10011, call 212-247-1129