News & Runway

Nicolas Ghesquière Ushers in a New Era at Louis Vuitton (Runway Review)


The Scene: Unlike Marc Jacobs, who was known for staging elaborate shows, Nicolas Ghesquière opted for a bare bones set-up with no real decor to speak of for his debut. Bernard Arnault, Natalia Vodianova, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Catherine Deneuve, Cindy Sherman, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Jean Paul Gaultier were all seated front row. Freja Beha Erichsen opened the show.

The Inspiration: "Timelessness, authenticity and innovation."

The Look: This was the most buzzed about show of Paris Fashion Week, given that it marked Nicolas Ghesquière's debut at Louis Vuitton. Unlike other designers that take over a major luxury brand as creative director, Ghesquière wasn't exactly in a position to dig through decades worth of archives as Marc Jacobs — a peer of Ghesquière's — was the house's first and only ready-to-wear designer. Fittingly, the designer remarked, "Today is a new day," and in keeping with his bare bones set-up it was a gimmick-free lineup of beautiful clothing. Interestingly, while the designer kept it relatively classic with his handbags (which represent the bulk of Louis Vuitton’s business), he was more envelope pushing with his ready-to-wear. There was a mod-ish feel to most of his looks, especially patterned A-line dresses and coats, skirts with oversized prominently featured pockets and plenty of suede and leather. Also in the mix were croc skin zipped jackets, high-waist and very high-shine trousers and dresses that mixed tweed and leather. It all made for a collection that was both fresh and luxurious, while being equally true to Louis Vuitton's and Ghesquière's aesthetics.

The Accessories: Short boots with belted detailing and classic Louis Vuitton handbag silhouettes (think the Speedy), updated with new patterns and materials, a miniature version of an old-fashioned suitcase.

The Beauty: Hair was parted in the middle and worn casually down, the face was kept bare (no shine or blush), and lips were pink.

The Takeaway: Ghesquière lived up to all of the industry's lofty expectations.

images: IMAXtree

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